The burners are off, but it’s impossible not to feel a deep warmth upon walking into Ramen by Ra as incense burns and Samara Joy’s soulful voice emits from the antique vinyl player in the corner of the dining room.

As owner and chef, Rasheeda Purdie prepared for her restaurant’s opening on November 15, it was hard for her not to get goosebumps when reflecting on how far her favorite comfort food had gotten her. Within the past two years, Purdie’s asa-ramen, or morning ramen, has become one of the most in-demand dishes in New York City. What started out as Purdie selling ramen kits and doing pop-ups turned into her operating Ramen by Ra in Bowery Market from 2023 to March 2025. With rave reviews and sold-out reservations, it’s not hard to see why what may be the first Black female-owned ramen shop is so popular.

In a city where fast-paced is the default and when patrons use social media virality to choose where to eat, Purdie has made it not only imperative but ritualistic for her guests to slow down. Through the comfort food of two distinct cultures — one of which runs in her blood, the other of which has welcomed her appreciative approach with open arms — Ramen by Ra fosters a sense of connection. Whether that’s connecting with others at the four-person counter or connecting with the moment for solo diners, Purdie leaves that up to the customers.

“It's small but mighty as it relates to the intimate side that I love to cook within,” she explained. “When you talk about restaurants back in the day, it's a place that's small. We need to get back to what it used to feel like. And if you have the ability to execute in that way, for something to feel homey and and and lived in and aged, people appreciate that. Because everybody can get the big box name outside but not everybody will want it.”

Each bowl Purdie serves up is a ritual that combines the comfort and cultural richness of Black American and Japanese culinary traditions. When she began studying ramen, she noticed similarities in how Black and Japanese people make broth.

“They make broth the same way we make collard greens,” she recalled thinking. “Collard greens is part liquid, part green. And I was like, I know I can do this and somewhat feel confident I'm gonna make a collard green ramen and see if that slaps.”

She began experimenting by adding noodles, smoked turkey necks, scallions, and a soy egg, allowing herself room to fail and try again. The concoction opened up the Prince Georges’ County native’s whole understanding of what ramen could be.

“We weren't raised with that combination, but we were raised with it separately and never put it together. You put it together, and that potlikker took it to a nuts level. Then when you mix it in with the egg? Yo, it hits you on a spiritual level. The ancestors were like, ‘do what you got to do.’”

And she did. And gave a nod to New York, the city that introduced her to ramen, at the same time.

Purdie’s innovative flavor profiles are an ode to classic breakfast staples: bacon, egg, and cheese; steak and soy egg; everything egg drop; BLT; and lox and cream cheese. Shoyu broth is the base for all, but different oils (lard, chimichurri, sesame, and nori) make each bowl unique and purposeful.

The 40-year-old chef’s careful intentions have been an asset in maneuvering through turbulent times. About a decade ago, she began her pivot into the culinary space. With the rise of e-commerce, she recognized a changing fashion industry in which her job would become less in demand. Time spent honing her craft under Melba Wilson, JJ Johnson, and Marcus Samuelson was foundational in her career, but two books in particular planted the seed for her innovative ramen. 

Having moved to the Lower East Side during the pandemic, Purdie missed her go-to ramen spot that helped end her day after a work shift. She read The Untold History of Ramen by George Solt on a mission to get creative with her recipes. When she wasn’t studying that book, Purdie was reading Pamela Strobel’s Princess Pamela’s Soulfood Cookbook. Strobel’s full story is elusive, but what’s certain is how she broke barriers as a Black woman chef in 1960s New York City.

Strobel’s restaurant was one of the first soul food spots in the East Village. It sat on the second floor of an apartment building, and at night, she’d transform the space into a jazz saloon. Strobel had a “nasty attitude” and would cuss you out if you messed with her business or her peace of mind, Purdie explained lightheartedly. Only those who got her personal approval would be blessed with a seat and whatever she felt like putting on the menu for that day. Diana Ross, Andy Warhol, and Jean-Michel Basquiat were notable names on that list. One day, she permanently closed up shop without explanation. 

Today, Ramen by Ra sits just doors down from where Strobel’s restaurant was. And through her soul food ramen, Purdie feels called to preserve and uplift Strobel’s legacy.

“I didn't even know I was gonna move here yet,” she said. “But if you look her up, this story has so many similarities to the point where I just personally think during COVID, her spirit was just settling into what I was creating. I'm on 70 East first. She was on 64 East first across the street.”

The Untold History of Ramen and Princess Pamela’s Soulfood Cookbook, along with a notebook with sketches and plans, down to the light fixtures, sit in her restaurant today as a reminder of the power of faith and works. Purdie is taking her next steps as intentionally as she did on the way here. 

With now Ramen by Ra open, Purdie will continue the same business model she upheld at her Bowery Market stand. Customers will order and pay for their food upon making their reservations. That is, if they can grab one before they get booked up for each month. Purdie has gotten some pushback about this method, but as times grow increasingly economically turbulent, she said it’s the surest way the restaurant can stay here to stay in a city where 80 percent of new New York City restaurants close within the first five years.

“If you reserve and you preorder, I can monitor my business,” she said, emphasizing the importance of small business loans and sustainability as inflation jacks up operating costs. “This is not 2000 or 2012. We are in a different world, and for me to feel confident in this as a young entrepreneur, my partner and I are putting all of our time, effort, and ability into it. This is how we are able to be confident and with that, create something that feels intentional.”

There will be a few changes, however, including new additions to the menu. Patrons without a reservation can enjoy bao buns and broths served at Ramen by Ra’s to-go window. A brothless Parmesan and fried egg mazemen is also now available. Purdie is especially excited for a new bowl, the maple-Shoyu sausage and soy-cured yolk ramen, which she said is a nod to little Rasheeda, who loved McDonald’s McGriddles.

One of the more notable additions to Ramen by Ra is Purdie’s sous chef and mentee, Brie Waller, a noodlemaking savant. When people walk through the doors, they’ll see two Black women, passionate about making and serving the dish, running a ramen shop.

Just as Purdie learned from Wilson and applied those lessons to her own career, she hopes to do the same for Waller and other younger chefs.

“It's not about me. I want to pass on to the next person, because we have to show up for each other,” she said. “I wouldn't have faith in knowing I can do this for someone else if I didn't have Melba as a mentor. If I didn't have that visibility, I wouldn't have known [this was] possible. I'm happy to be a part of this and pour it on to the next generation.”

Reservations for Ramen by Ra can be made on Resy on the first and 15th of each month. Her hours are Wednesday through Sunday from 9 am to 6 pm.